95 Decanter – Though Terlo is predominantly east facing, Einaudi’s Costa Grimaldi vineyard curves southward, creating a southeastern exposure. The wine is aged in a combination of medium-toast French barriques, 10% new, and five hectolitre French and Austrian casks. Smoky and grilled at first, it then opens up to reveal enticing black pepper, graphite and fragrant black tea nuances. It is concentrated and layered without being heavy, and the fruit is supported by firm, confident tannins.
94 Vinous – Black cherry, smoke, tar, licorice and menthol give the 2013 Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi much of its virile personality. Here, too, the level of fruit intensity is considerable, but, as always, the Costa Grimaldi has the broad shoulders and frame to hand all of that richness. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 needs at least a few years in bottle to shed some of its youthful tannin. This is impressive juice.
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