97 James Suckling – A great Spatlese that has deep apricot and mandarin orange fruit with delicate mint and tarragon aromas. Staggering vitality and brilliance on the extremely focused and precise palate. Enormous wet stone character at the super-long finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold.
95 Vinous – The 2022 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese is from a site that combines weathered shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, “but essentially the vines root in Tonschiefer or shale,” Helmut says. It is not a steep site; in the valley, cold air flows at night, and the days are hot. This has the biggest day-night amplitude and is close to the river. The nose is of confounding aromatic complexity: green elements of citrus, think lime jelly, citrus leaf. The palate has a tropical intensity that brings passion fruit, lime, mango and much more intense sweetness that is always cut with vivid acidity. The 2022 is wonderfully exciting, hair-raising, almost joyful, or, as Helmut calls it, “crazy.” Simply wonderful.
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