97 Wine Advocate – 2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.
Salon’s just-released 2013 Blanc de Blancs derives from a challenging growing season that is emerging, at least with respect to the region’s top cuvées, as one of the most underestimated vintages of the last 15 years. After a cold winter, budbreak was relatively late. The weather was rainy throughout the spring, followed by hail episodes in the Côte des Bar, in Vallée de la Marne and in Côte des Blancs, notably in Epernay. In mid-July, the weather turned hot, sunny and dry until early September. Unfortunately, the rains returned until the end of the month, causing damage and precipitating a virulent attack of gray rot (botrytis) in some locations. Harvest took place at the beginning of October. The houses that managed to contain the attacks of gray rot and to pick the grapes during the mild days of October succeeded in making excellent wines with a classic, chiseled profile that has become only too rare in the interim.
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